HTML University

Science Dept.

Geology and Soils GEO 100 Notes
Wave Action - Shorelines

1. General Information
   1. Waves
      1. Are Propagated by the Wind, and Are Progagated in the Direction of the Prevailing Wind

      2. Wavelength

      3. Frequency

      4. Amplitude or Wave Height

      5. Orbital Motion

      6. Wavebase is 1/2 Wavelength

      7. In Shallow Water, the Ocean Floor Can Influence a Wave

   2. Breakers

   3. Refraction of Waves Toward Shore

   4. Beach
      1. Sediment Supply
         1. Rivers

         2. Local

      2. How to Interfere With a Natural Process!
         1. Sediment Supply

         2. Ship It Out to Sea

         3. Geohazard

   5. Beach Face

   6. Longshore Current: There is a Component of Motion Which is Parallel to the Shore Which Transports Material Down Shore.

   7. Rip Currents

2. Wave Erosion
   1. "Pressure"

   2. Abrasion: Grinding Action of Particles

   3. Solution

3. Landforms of Marine Erosion
   1. Cliffs

   2. Abrasion Platform or Wave Cut Bench

   3. Marine Terraces

   4. Arches

   5. Stacks

   6. Notches

   7. Sea Caves

   8. Ocean Canyons

4. Landforms of Marine Deposition
   1. Spits

   2. Tombolos

   3. Barrier Bars

   4. Lagoons

5. Evolution of Coasts
   1. Irregular Coasts
      1. Origin: Coastline of Submergence

      2. Descriptive: Bold and Embayed

   2. Gently Sloping Sea Floor
      1. Origin: Coastline of Emergence

      2. Descriptive: Coastal Plain Type

   3. A Tendency to Straighten

   4. The Vertical Profile

6. Selected Marine Web Sites